Sea Kayak Specialists Blog

McCallum. It’s been a bit of a rollercoaster ride since this trip started on July 3rd. A capsize on the second day (no worries, I hit my roll 1st time), which shook my confidence a bit. Then a really rough sea day on the 13th when I wasn’t sure if I’d get to our Red Island destination. I was considering taking the ferry from Francois and letting Nancy go on alone after the email from Richard Alexander! But the ferry didn’t leave until tomorrow- Thursday- so I’d have to hang around Francois for 3 days! Anyway, the weather forecast was favorable so I decided to paddle. I don’t know when it happened but on Monday as we left Francois my “Sea-Legs” finally kicked in and its been great paddling all the way into McCallum. We had to pull into a cove on Monday instead of getting further down the coast as planned, but what a surprise. The camp site at Cul de Sac Cove was our prettiest yet with a spectacular waterfall to boot! Weather held us there for a day and there was fog and thunderstorms forecast early this morning so we left a  bit later than usual. As we paddled out the fog burned off, the sun came out and we had a gentle westerly breeze pushing us all the way to McCallum. Gread days paddle. BFN

Hi All! 

Carl and I finally figured out that all these little villages have community internet access.  School is open this evening from 6 to 9 pm, so am able to do my own update!

We are in Francois – and it is still foggy.  But, as we left Cape LaHune this morning, the fog partailly lifted and there were some fantastical, otherwordly views.  Like off of a set for a Harry Potter or Lord of the Rings movie.  The fog drifting over the ragged rocks only added to the scene.  Very cool. 

We had been  forewarned that “there are 22 days of fog in July” along this coast.  It has become our mantra.  Ive always said I don’t mind – even like - paddling in fog.  The kind of fog we had this morning- where there are glimpses of coastline.  The kind of fog that burns off – or comes and goes, making a dance with the blue sky and the land and the sea.  I was OK with 22 days of that!  I now realize I was niave.  I never really knew what fog was until this trip. 

I have paddled in pea soup fog before with visibility of a couple hundred yards or less – for a full day or more.  And I have had many consectutive days with some fog during part of the  day.  But I had never seen it come in like pea soup for 3 or 4 or 5 days at a time – never letting up.  In Newfoundland, when they say fog banks – they ain’t messing around.  If you could store money in these banks there would be plenty for all the world to share!  So thick it is misty and everything is immediatly drenched.  There are, reportedly, many great hiking trails with amazing vistas.  But, we haven’t done much,  as the primary result would be getting soaked feet!

The other thing is that this fog comes in with southwest winds – which means we not only have fog to deal with, but swell.  And, along this section of coast it means waves bouncing off the cliffs and back at us creating confused seas.  Makes for concentrated paddling… and not so much sightseeing.   On the other hand, we are getting really great at navigating – haven’t turned on the GPS after the first foggy day or two – when we stopped once or twice to confirm where we thought we were. 

The good news is the winds are forecast to be pretty calm for tomorrow – so  should be able to paddle on.  And are forecast to shift to the northwest on Tuesday afternoon, so we may get some clear skies and calm seas later this week!  Any chance to  dry out is appreciated. 

Maybe I’ll come back sometime in August – only 14 or 15 days of fog!  Or in September when, they tell me, the fog lessens but seas are still somewhat calm.  Though, someone else said that’s when the storms start to roll in….  you never can tell. 

Each trip is unique with it’s own stories to tell.  The two constants reported  in any trip along this shore, it seems, are the outstandingly friendly and hospitable people and the rocky, rugged and beautiful coast they inhabit. 

Nancy

Arrived at Grey River Outport today around noon. The sun and conditions have been kind. Nancy has just made me hike to the top of the bloody island to get to the “Look-Out” spot. Although I think I may be experienceing my first heart attack. The view was deffinatrly worth it! Grey River is a really cool O

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ady see clouds rolling in. Looks like we get wet again! Bye for now.

Finally a beautiful calm sunny paddling day. The fog cleared last night and we set off at 8:30 this morning. Just landed at Fox Island – absolutely exquisite spot. Best campsite thus far – and the sun’s still shining so we’re drying everything out. Hopefully we’ll keep the fair weather tomorrow and be able to head into Grey River. It’s only 11 miles away now. We’ll check the long range forecast once we get there and work out next steps depending on how far we think we can get towards MCullum. Bye for now.

Packed up early and headed out into what should have been calming seas – yeah right!!…  As we got further out it was obvious that the swells were still in the 2m (6′) range and the fog was really dense. So we bagged it and headed back to our camp site on Red Island. Nancy has tweaked her back so we’re staying here another night to give her a chance to relax and heal. I’ll be a lot more at ease if the calmer conditions materialize tomorrow, especially if the fog lifts a bit so that we can see some of the coastline we’re paddling along! When they said 22 days of fog in july, I thought they were kidding. Not so apparently. We’ll get moving again soon. Hey the sun’s trying to break through. That’s a step in the right direction. TTFN

Red Island, 11 miles from our Sandbanks Provincial Park launch point in Burgeo. Seas 2 to 3 meters (4-6′), wind 15 to 20 knots! So we didn’t go far. Sam will remember my “Face of Concentration” from the Queen Charlottes. Fog all way, brief sunny interlude just after we landed. Nancy’s paddling around the sheltered inlet for a while. I’m letting my heart rate get back to normal! Supposed to be a bit calmer tomorrow, so we’ll try and get a bit further.

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Queen Charlottes is off of the northern British Columbian coastline. Carl and I did a 25 day trip there in 2005 click here to see a photo gallery from the trip. On the west side of Moresby Island we had 2 meter (6′) seas which were made worse by the reflection off of the cliffs.

As Carl noted, the winds are forecasted to be dropping so they should be able to cover some miles. Drizzle and fog are forecasted but I am sure they would take calmer seas to get some paddling done.

It is interesting to note the difference between a trip and an expedition. A trip is something you do when you are on vacation. It is relaxing, enjoyable and not stressful. An expedition is work. You are forced to do things such as: covering miles in rough seas, waiting out the weather, coping with cold, dealing with boredom, setting up and breaking down camp in the rain, fatigue, discomfort, etc. All this to meet your goal. In the end, you surprise yourself with what you accomplish and learn.

Looks like Carl and Nancy have an expedition on their hands.

sam

I REALIZE NOW, THAT I’VE NEVER SEEN RAIN!….. It’s pouring down! We’ve decided to hang out in Borneo for at least another day. It just seemed daft to break camp and get everything soaked and then have no dry space when we setup camp again tonight. We’d just be colder and more miserable after only covering a short distance. So we’ll likely head into town again later and grab a bite to eat and dry off a bit if that’s possible. Rain still forecast tomorrow, but then its suppose to start clearing up. EVERYTHING IS WET OR DAMP – IT’S AWESOME!

Hi all – Carl and I are enjoying a day off in Burgeo.  Had done our long paddle yesterday under threat of 20 to 25 knot south winds for the next 4 days – which meant building seas bouncing off the rocky shore and cliffs.  Forecast was off, as today is foggy with hardly a breath of wind.  But, we were in need of a day off after yesterday’s marathon.  More importantly, we needed to chat with some locals about the next stretch of coast – as the cliffs rise and the landing sites decrease.  A shower and laundry facilities at the Sandbanks Provincial Park Campground were a definite bonus!

The Newfoundland hospitality – which has been part of the lore we read in planning this trip – is even more so than could be imagined.  We have not met someone who is anything other than excessively helpful and friendly.  From the ferry workers unloading our kayaks and moving them across the parking area to their facility boat launch (via forklift, us following in blaze orange vests), to folks in Rose Blanche who let us use the phone and washroom, to Cindy, Clyde and Joe in Grand Brit who filled us in on town history as we watched the last ferry come and go, to SueAnn at the Campground to Dorim and Martine of Burgeo Haven Bed and Breakfast, to the Seaview Lounge – where I am on the internet and Carl is having a beer and playing pool!  There are others we have met on the way.

Dorim was the man we were looking for today.  In addition to a  B and B, he runs kayaking tours and was able to give us some additional information about the next stretch of coast line.  Verifying some potential  landings and camp areas, cautioning others and giving us a few more spots to consider.  We also wanted to verify the ferry schedule between these coastal towns, which is our back up plan  in case of bad weather.  Not to mention some of the local cool things to see – such as caves and pinacles and general fantastic scenery.

All right -gotta go sort through maps and gear.  Until the next time!

Nancy