During the month of August 2006, there were some incredible days for surfing in Marquette. The sessions have blurred together but I remember one ride where I barely caught the wave. It was steep for sitting on the lip with the bow below me, I was literally standing on my foot pegs before gravity took over and I hurled down the face. Waves on this day were big enough to allow me to carve turns and
maneuver around on the wave face – a definite rarity in my 17.5′ NDK Explorer.
With waves this big, they punish you severely for making mistakes. One learns which way to turn at the end of a ride and where to avoid getting maytagged. But you still get caught from time to time and pay a heavy price. But catching great waves like this creates a powerful addiction, especially during the warm water and air temperatures of august. One surfs until sunset, fatigue or the waves start to diminish.
It was during another session on another day – something inside me was off. I caught an ok ride on my first wave but my performance sounded a warning. My timing, boat control and strength made it seem as if my body was in a fog. Turns out, I had food poisoning but didn’t know it until later. I headed out for another ride and by the time I reached the line up, knew something was wrong and made the decision to take out after this ride. But wouldn’t you know it, I caught a dream ride, one of many that august. It was a long, carving ride on the beautiful face of a 8′ wave.
As I pulled off the wave I was stoked, I immediately started to turn to go back out and catch another ride. But, I had trouble turning the boat. The final waves of the set made it difficult to turn around in the near shore break. Once again, my physical state became obvious – I shouldn’t be here. As a lull between sets started, I could have easily paddled out again. I was teased and chastised as the same time but more importantly, I was given a choice. Sitting there with my heart pumping, adrenaline flowing and strength ebbing, I turned to go in.
I consider that moment a warning about greed. Perhaps I could have continued surfing that day without incident. But I know what it is like to get maytagged in surf that big. One can get pulled out of the boat in the powerful hydraulics. The boat can get tumbled end over end. You can roll up only to be immediately knocked over by the next wave. Waves that big can feel like they are ripping your helmet, PFD and paddling jacket off. As a swimmer after getting pulled out of the boat, I’ve been pinned to the bottom by breaking waves despite the buoyancy of my PFD and neoprene wetsuit. All of that becomes a different situation when one is not at the top of one’s game as I was that day.
At times in life we dance on the edge of a razor, one fall away from a bad situation. I drove home that day happy with that one ride but wished for more. As the effects of the food poisoning grew, that changed – I knew I had gotten lucky dancing.
sam