Sea Kayak Specialists Blog

Ahh… feels good to be back in the U.P.!

The drive back from Nova Scotia was relatively uneventful…. In addition to a new alternator, I had to have my brakes machined because they had gotten so rusted from sitting next to the sea for 4 weeks that it didn’t feel safe to drive! And, the first time I went to get gas, the gas tank release was stuck and took 2 people to open. Opened and closed it a few times with some WD 40 and all was well.

I had some friends meet me at my parents in the Buffalo / Niagara Falls area on the way home, and I took them for a tour of Niagara Falls. We had a great time. Though, the sunny blue sky day became overcast as we walked around. We did the maid of the mist and walked up near the falls – where the mist and spray are drenching – with some protection from the glorified garbage bags they call raincoats that come with the tour. When we were done, we threw the rain coats away and within 5 to 10 minutes it started raining!

The moral of the story:  if you want a nice, sunny vacation – plan it with Sam, not me.  I seem to have a rain cloud following me. 

Newfoundland is truly a spectacular place – even in the fog and rain!   I have wonderful memories and tons of pictures, which I haven’t had a chance to sort through yet.  But, will try to get some posted in the next week or so.  I am still sorting and cleaning gear and going  through mail and getting ready to go back to my folks in Buffalo.

My saga of broken equipment continues, despite the end of the paddling portion of the trip. I am at a B and B across the street from a Canadian Tire store, hoping my car will be fixed by tomorrow!

Carl and I left Newfoundland in, surprise, surprise, foggy conditions. The rain did clear Saturday and was followed by a warm and sunny afternoon before the fog settled in again in the evening at the ferry terminal.

Spent the night on the ferry and arrived (nearly) on time in North Sydney. Walked across the street to get my car – dead as a doornail. Tried to jump it. As soon as the cables were detached it went dead again. Time for a tow. Unfortunately, no mechanics as it was a Sunday afternoon. More unfortunately, today is a national holiday in Canada. Fortunately, the Canadian Tire is open. Unfortunaley, I need an alternator, which they don’t have. So, I am here at least one more day. I have never sat and waited and been stranded so often during a trip – and it is not one of my strengths!

This has been the most challenging trip I’ve been on for a variety of reasons. Lots of logistics and travel; many obstacles when planning; more gear worn than anticipated – but I could never just order what needed to be replaced and check it off the list. It was unavailable, or backordered, or phone calls and emails weren’t returned, or the equipment arrived with defects… everything had to be done 2 or 3 or 4 times. Takes alot of time to plan this kind of trip as it is – without doing everything multiple times!

Depsite my best efforts, I was still plagued on the trip. Here is my list of what went wrong. The good news, is I had the proper repair items (sometimes with Carl’s help) to get it taken care of.
1. Leaky spray skirt. I tired to get a new, custom sprayskirt as mine showed signs of wear. Started in early April…. but, still it arrived a couple days after I left. Noticed a hole in current one on the first day of the trip. Used the spare for 9 days – until there was a dry enough time to fix the first one with some goop! Better, but still was wet most of the time..
2. Defective air mattress. Brand new thermarest (not self inflating) got an internal leak (hard to explain, but unfixable).
Wasn’t sure if it would last – bought blue foam pad as back up. The thermarest broke down little by little, but was usable till the end (thankfully – tried the blue foam and it was totally inadequate)
3. Broken tent pole. Fixed with sleeve in repair kit.
4. Lost tow bag. My own dumb mistake…somehow left it behind after a pee break). Luckily, Carl didn’t need a tow.
5. Leaky tent (was fine till midway through the trip). I put my tarp over the tent, so remained dry the entire trip.
6. Another broken tent pole. Used Carl’s sleeve to fix it. Then picked up some 6 inch pieces of plastic pipe at the next town, in case another one broke. I cringed everytime I set up the tent, hoping not to hear yet another snap…
7. Under deck bag came undone. That was one of the things that gave me grief installing – and was done mulitple times. But that is another story – and I knew if it failed I could live without the space.
8. Part of my kayak seat broke - where the back strap attached. Carl had an extra webbing strap to re-inforce it. I was getting pretty frustrated and incoherent by this time…

In addition to all those kayak items, and my broken down car, there were many things going on at home to cause me stress. While driving to Nova Scotia, mom ended up in the hospital – followed the next day by dad. Dad is home and doing well, but will need surgery. Mom is up and down, and in a long term care facility for an undetermined length of time. Has been to the ER several times, from the facility. It has been hard to be so far away… I have also learned that one of my good college friends has died, and an aunt has had a stroke and is doing poorly. It has not been a summer of good news.

Right now, I want nothing more than to go home – to see my parents, but also to go to my home, and just enjoy the beauty and friends and routine of the UP. I don’t know when that will be, and that is hard. More waiting….

Beginning tonight at 7:30 PM local time, we will be leaving Newfoundland, and closing the circle heading back from Argentia to North Sydney, Nova Scotia.

Wednesday was spent with a little exploring and a short hike. Finally got to the top of some hills to get a nice panoramic view. Where it was evident the wind – which wasn’t supposed to pick up till late afternoon or evening – was early (it was not yet noon). I so wanted to hike on the endless rocky knolls stretching into the distance and so very inviting. But, more strongly wanted to get into a safe port so we could get the ferry on Saturday! And, once the wind started blowing, it was forecast to keep blowing for at least 3 to 4 days. As it was, Wednesday afternoon paddling was a slog in blowing wind and building seas, but we arrived safely back to a sheltered harbor.

Thursday was spent in Rencontre East (pronounced Rouncounter) – accerssible only by intercoastal ferry – sorting gear. Woke up to overcast skies that looked as if it could rain. Locals who had the forecast said it would be a nice day, with rain on Friday. And, indeed it was beautiful! Sun came out, blue skies, short sleeves and a nice breeze to keep things cool. Perfect – could have used a dozen more of that kind of day this trip. Though, wouldn’t have had much paddling on the open coast – as, outside our very protected harbor, it was more than a nice breeze!

As we were unpacking boats and drying gear and re-organizing for the trip home, a woman was in her yard next to the dock and struck up a conversation. Then Shirley invited us in for tea – which included homemade soup, rolls, muffins, cheese, yogurt and converstation with Shirley and her cousin, Donna. Donna was visiting from Belloram (pronounced Bell OR im) and was full of stories. Shirley (in her 70′s?) has just sold the home she grew up in…. She and her husband have used it as a summer home (with the first indoor plumbing installed in 2005) for many years. He died a couple years ago, and she said it just isn’t the same. Despite her packing, however, she took time to cater to us. Not only feeding us, but inviting us to take a shower and allowing a load of laundry. Pure bliss to have a shower and clean clothes after 3 weeks! She also said we could put our bags in the shed overnight. Another detail which was a wonderful bonus, as it meant we would not have to unpack and repack our boats anymore!

Took a couple short walks that day. Around a pond in the area. Throughout the town. And along the Rencontre River to the “head of the lake”. Rencountre Lake is 4 1/2 miles long and 1/2 mile at it’s widest. Tucked between steep cliffs. Gorgeous. We had thought of paddling up, but after Wednesday’s difficult slog, we were both tired – and wanted dry gear for the journey home.

Started to drizzle in the evening… and we spent our last night in our tents in pouring down rain. Awoke to a drizzle on Friday, and got our tents and remaining gear packed. Wheeled our kayaks to the ferry dock, and holed up in Shirley’s shed until it was time to board. Then, Shirley stuck her head out and called “come on in for coffee”! So, in we went. Met her son, Shaun, who arrived on the previous evening’s ferry to help pack and move. She apologized for sleeping in and not having eggs and bacon to offer!

Soon, the ferry was loading and we were off. Into high seas, from the perspective on my sensitive stomach, though the captain was unphased. “It’s not too bad”. No doubt, he has seen much, much worse. He also told Carl “I’ve been on the sea all my life, and you guys have got more balls than I have to go out in those little boats”. I guess we just choose our days more carefully than he can as a ferry captain! All perspective. Of course, it was also foggy and raining on our 1 3/4 hour crossing. Seemed fitting..

Arrived in Bay L’argent without incident. Waited about an hour for our ride from Greg Pittman (and his 14 year old son). Had a nice brunch, drove into sunshine, and dropped our boats off at the ferry terminal. With all the hassle coming over, it was surprisingly anticlimactic. “We’ve sent kayaks over before – no problem.” Our boats and gears are currently stored at the terminal, and we have been hanging out at the Castle Landing Bed and Breakfast, in Placentia. Enjoyed a walk to town, ice cream and a rest by the sea before it began to drizzle again. Had a great dinner – with fresh veggies!!!! – and enjoyed our first night in a bed in 4 weeks. We are basking in the cover of a house (it is raining again…), flush toilets and daily showers. Plans to go to a historic sight in walking distance if the rain clears.

That’s it for now. The paddling is done, but the journey not quite over!

Nancy

I wrote this draft on July 21st, and got booted off the computer when I tried to publish it. I know it is out of order, But is part of the story!

July 21st:
Well, the first, and biggest goal of the trip, was to get to McCallum – traversing the exposed and difficult southwest coast.  As you know, we have had our share of weather days – another one yesterday, making 7 total!

We paddled in fog (surprise, surprise!) again on Monday, though had some bits of blue sky and decent visibility initially.  Even got to see the cliffs surrounding Francois as we departed.  But, it settled in thick later on.  Visibility ever decreasing, blue sky disappearing, periods of sun glowing through lessening.

Traversing some exposed coast in swell and clapotis, it became darker and darker.  Eerie, almost.  Black cliffs, black water, seemingly black fog.  We eventually ended the day in Cul de Sac – a lovely mile long cove with an amazing waterfall a the end.  We were treated to a wee bit of blue sky dancing with the fog, before it again turned dark and gray.  We could hear the waterfall, but not see it.

Yesterday, fog remained like pea soup all day, and the forecast for increased wind and waves.  We sat it out.  Forecast for today was good.  Didn’t get too early a start, as there was a risk of morning thunderstorms.  Turned out to be a good decision – blue sky began to peak through as we prepared to leave.  We paddled out of the cove into intence, bright white (with hardly any visibility) fog.  But, that is the kind of fog that often burns off.  And, as the morning went on, it fully dissapated.  We were finally able to see the 700 meter cliffs we have paddled by these last days.  Fantastic, majestic, awesome, and so many other descriptors that don’t do justice.  A west wind picked up in the afternoon and virtually blew us to McCallum.  One of the nicest days of paddling so far.

Now we head toward Gaultois, Hermitage, Harbor Breton and up into Fortune Bay and Belle Bay, toward a rendevous with Greg Pittman to shuttle us to the ferry in Argentia on the 31st.  Will be fun to see what lies ahead!

Lally Cove. After yesterday’s mix up, we were both a bit down as we were now retracing our steps. But we got up early this morning to head back to Sandyville/Hermitage and arrange our shuttle to Pool’s Cove. It was a dreary, drizzly, morning. As we started out there was a distant thunder clap! So back to Great Harbor for the 3rd time to wait for the thunder to pass. We bucked up a bit as we watched a pod of Whales pass by on their way through the bay. We got back to Sandyville- spotting a few seals- and arranged for the shuttle quickly – same trailer as last time, different driver- and we were in Pool’s Cove and back on the water by 3pm with glorious blue sunny skies again. We explored the North Bay, trying to hike up a stream for a better look at a cool waterfall but gave up before one of us went in and twisted an ankle! As we went around the north edge of the bay, the wind picked up and we had great fun playing in the waves all the way into camp. Spirits lifted once again. Still sunny, hope it stays that way, we deserve it.

Back at Great Harbor! We paddled to Connaigre Point on our way to Harbor Bretton. As we rounded the point conditions on the other side of the peninsula were OK but had the potential to get worse and we had nowhere to duck in for about 7 miles if conditions did worsen. So we ducked back into calmer water and I listened to the marine forecast. It called for the winds to increase to 20-25 knots gusting to 35 knots, and the wave heights to increase to 1-2 meters. A combination that caused us to act prudently and play it safe, returning to Great Harbor. Unfortunately, I got it wrong! The stronger conditions weren’t forecast to arrive until later this afternoon, so we could’ve gone on- dammit! A waste of a paddling day! However the long range forecast is still not too good so we might have been stuck at Harbor Bretton anyway. So, hopefully tomorrow, when the rain stops, we plan to paddle over to Hermitage and get a ride up to Pool’s Cove, where we can paddle around for a few days in more sheltered conditions ending up in Bay L’Argent.

Great Harbor. I was hoping for a beautiful sunset to match the great sunrise that greeted me as I opened my tent this morning. No such luck, the FOG rolled in at about 7:30pm obliterating the great view back over the Connaigre Channel that we paddled across this evening. We got stuck at Raymond Point yesterday with wind, a little FOG and rain that didn’t let up until 3:00pm! So we bagged it for an eighth day! This morning was a new day, flat calm and sunny blue skies. So we broke camp and were on the move by 8am. Paddling towards Hermitage, we came across 4 or 5 Salmon factories, followed a group of 7 Golden Eagles and saw a couple of whales from a distance. We were in Hermitage by 1pm and had organized a shuttle across the peninsula to Sandyville, enlisting the assistance of a local with a trailer. As we couldn’t get a B & B for the night, we decided to paddle on a bit instead of camping in Sandyville as the location didn’t hold much appeal. 6 miles later we arrived at Great Harbor, which is a much prettier setting. Save the FOG of course.

Rain all night- thunderstorm this morning- windy and rainy now! We’re getting the full set of Newfy weather conditions this trip. Hope to get moving later this afternoon.

Raymond Point. Guess what we awoke to find this morning?……. You guessed it – FOG! But conditions were flat calm and when we did get a breeze, it was at our backs pushing us along. And the fog lifted by noon. Some sun but a pretty easy 17 mile paddle to our current camp site. Poor Nancy is having a tough time with her equipment breaking- latest is a leaky tent and we may get rained on tonight! But she’s a trooper and has adapted her tarp to fix the problem. Hermitage tomorrow hopefully, we may take a room each at a B & B for a night so we can take a shower. I know I’m getting a little “Gamey”! Only just a week to go before we make our way homeward and leave this wonderful “Rock”. Later Dudes.

McCallum. It’s been a bit of a rollercoaster ride since this trip started on July 3rd. A capsize on the second day (no worries, I hit my roll 1st time), which shook my confidence a bit. Then a really rough sea day on the 13th when I wasn’t sure if I’d get to our Red Island destination. I was considering taking the ferry from Francois and letting Nancy go on alone after the email from Richard Alexander! But the ferry didn’t leave until tomorrow- Thursday- so I’d have to hang around Francois for 3 days! Anyway, the weather forecast was favorable so I decided to paddle. I don’t know when it happened but on Monday as we left Francois my “Sea-Legs” finally kicked in and its been great paddling all the way into McCallum. We had to pull into a cove on Monday instead of getting further down the coast as planned, but what a surprise. The camp site at Cul de Sac Cove was our prettiest yet with a spectacular waterfall to boot! Weather held us there for a day and there was fog and thunderstorms forecast early this morning so we left a  bit later than usual. As we paddled out the fog burned off, the sun came out and we had a gentle westerly breeze pushing us all the way to McCallum. Gread days paddle. BFN